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TILT Front End Description and Installation

 Feature vehicle: 88-98 Chevy Tilt w / molded in Indy Cowl scoop.

Front End Descriptions

We offer the largest selections of front ends - Any where!

 One piece front end offer many advantages. Most importantly, Easy Engine Access!  They are perfect for header and spark plug access - engine swaps...etc....  Think about this the next time you are working on your vehicle - how great it would be if you didn't have to  climb over those fenders to get to your motor.  Less weight is an other important factor that most individuals don't think about. Lightening up your vehicle means better economy and performance - if you think we are kidding try bolting a spare set of cylinders heads to your front bumper and you'll see just what front end weight will do to your handling.  With a glass front end you can save anywhere from 50 to 150 pounds. Remember, less front end weight means better weight transfer, better economy, better gas mileage & heck that's better for the environment.

 One of the best ways to eliminate rusty front end body parts is to simply take them off - and start fresh with a new fiberglass composite front end.


 Tilt Front Ends: come complete with a hinge kit. They require some body work experience as well as light welding, drilling and cutting to insure proper installation.

                                  Tilt Front End Instructions
 The following is simply one suggested way of installing your new fiberglass front end. These instructions and ideas may or may not work for you & a secure - safe installation is solely the responsibility of the installer.

 Out With the Old
 To begin, drain and remove the radiator and transmission cooler. Disconnect the front wiring harness from the front end panels.  remove all the rusty and/or damaged front end parts ..i.e...hoods, hinges, fender, wheel wells, battery & tray and radiator core support.  The front bumper can remain attached (without grill guard).

 Aligning the New Front End
 Remove the New front end from its' crate (Be sure to remove the lower wood tie in blocks first). Position the Front end assembly on the truck.  Some of the models are made 1/4" extra long on the back edge and need sanded down for an accurate fit against the doors and cab. Also, some front ends may require that the factory inner bracing be trimmed down to fit the cowl and inside rear fender areas. Shim the front end to the desired location with wooden blocks. Be sure the front end lines up parallel with the door seams. A door seam gap larger than stock is required (somewhere between 1/4" and 5/16"). On PRE-SPLIT models, alignment must be done with the lower panel clamped to the front end - so that the entire unit can be aligned at one time. Some early truck front ends may need to be notched where the frame horns protrude forward.

 Place two hinging brackets on each forward frame rail with the gusset on the out board side.  These brackets should be positioned 1/2" behind your bumper - clamp them into place.   The other two brackets should be positioned on top of the first two with the gussets on the inboard side. Place the hinges (supplied) between the two brackets , which are now sleeved together, at the top forward edge forming a temporary shim. Next, shim the top bracket up to contact with the front end steel bar and clamp it in place.  With the brackets in position trim off  the excess at a point 1/4" above the bumper.  this should put your hinge point 1/2" above and 1/2" behind the bumper.

 In with the new
 Remove the front end and brackets. Cut all 4 brackets off at the mark  1/2" above the bumper. Put the 2 lower brackets back in place - drill and bolt / weld them to the frame rail, while being sure to keep them parallel.  Assemble your hinges, by hammering the pin into the slot as shown.  Make sure both hinges are assembled the same, this will allow the front end (once fully opened) to be easily removed by sliding it to one side. EASY ON - EASY OFF  Position the hinges with the hinge center 3/8 "above the brackets and weld them in place. Next weld the two upper brackets to the rear side of the hinges.  At this point your hinging mechanism should move up and down freely.


 Put your front end back in place and drill a 1/2" hole through the front ends steal bar and the upper hinge bracket. Make sure to double check the security of the steel bar laminated in the front end itself.  More fiberglass may need to be added to secure it properly. Now that your new U.S. BODY SOURCE front end is aligned and securely attached to the hinge assembly, it is time to secure the lower fender panels. (On Pre-split models simply drill & bolt the lower fender section to the cab. Skip forward to Grill & light installation)  On other front ends which are NOT pre-split - draw a line where you would like to split the front end from the lower fender section. This panel can be cut off with a die grinder or fine tooth saber saw.  Once the cut has been made you will need to dress all 4 sides of your cut area - with fiberglass flat stock, so the fenders close securely. Fabricate brackets and install the lower fender section to your cab.

 Grill & Light Installation
 Drill open all of the light bowls, grill attach points and side marker holes on the indicated spots. Needed will be a drill, saber saw, hand file & possibly a square rat tail file (for the headlight adjuster). Check your original steel to be sure that the holes are not opened too large. If the holes are opened too large - they will have to be glassed closed and reopened. Prefit all trim to be sure that no further drilling is required after painting. Some front end trim pieces may need modification - because the front end is now one solid piece and there is no space between the hood and the sore support, as on the original vehicle.

 Wiring & Radiator Support Installation
 To secure the radiator cut the center section of the original core support - leaving at least 3" on each side of the radiator opening - leaving you with a radiator cradle as shown below. On some models the radiator may need to be moved back a few inches and the fan shroud may need trimming to clear the tilt mechanism.  With the radiator installed in the newly modified sore support - bolt it directly to the frame. The original perches can be moved back to clear the front end. To support the top of the radiator securely, we recommend steel tubing from the top of the new core support attached to the top of the firewall. Secure all loose wiring and install a quick disconnect plug on all of the wiring attached to the front end - for easy removal. During this time don't forget the unit is fiberglass and a ground wire will be necessary for proper operation of all electrical items. 

Your almost done!
 To hold the new tilt front end open you may want to choose from the following suggestions.....Hydraulic strut rods (found at the local auto parts store)....A pump powered hydraulic cylinder.......or a simple chain.  We have even seen customers use a single air shock, which worked very well. To latch the front end down - you can use CJ hood tie downs, electric trunk latches, hood pins, dzus fasteners or what ever you might decide upon. Rubber snubbers are also a good idea at the back of the hood to give the unit something to rest on at the cowling area.  Once everything is complete and operating properly block sand the unit - prime & paint.

 We have tried to cover most areas involved in a simple installation. The installation you do, may be easier or more difficult, depending on your make / model and ability.

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