Feature vehicle: 88-98 Chevy Tilt w / molded in Indy Cowl scoop.
Front End Descriptions
We offer the
largest selections of front ends - Any where!
front end offer many advantages. Most importantly, Easy Engine Access!
They are perfect for header and spark plug access - engine
swaps...etc.... Think about this the next time you are working on your
vehicle - how great it would be if you didn't have to climb over those
fenders to get to your motor. Less weight is an other important factor
that most individuals don't think about. Lightening up your vehicle
means better economy and performance - if you think we are kidding try
bolting a spare set of cylinders heads to your front bumper and you'll
see just what front end weight will do to your handling. With a glass
front end you can save anywhere from 50 to 150 pounds. Remember,
less front end weight means better weight transfer, better economy,
better gas mileage & heck that's better for the environment.
One of the best ways to eliminate rusty front end body parts is
to simply take them off - and start fresh with a new fiberglass
composite front end.
BE AWARE THAT:
Tilt Front Ends:
come complete with a hinge kit. They require some
body work experience as well as light welding, drilling and cutting to
insure proper installation.
Tilt Front End Instructions
The following is simply one suggested way of installing your new
fiberglass front end. These instructions and ideas may or may not work
for you & a secure - safe installation is solely the responsibility of
Out With the Old
To begin, drain and
remove the radiator and transmission cooler. Disconnect the front
wiring harness from the front end panels. remove all the rusty and/or
damaged front end parts ..i.e...hoods, hinges, fender, wheel wells,
battery & tray and radiator core support. The front bumper can remain
attached (without grill guard).
Aligning the New Front End
Remove the New front
end from its' crate (Be sure to remove the lower wood tie in blocks
first). Position the Front end assembly on the truck. Some of the
models are made 1/4" extra long on the back edge and need sanded down
for an accurate fit against the doors and cab. Also, some front ends
may require that the factory inner bracing be trimmed down to fit the
cowl and inside rear fender areas. Shim the front end to the desired
location with wooden blocks. Be sure the front end lines up parallel
with the door seams. A door seam gap larger than stock is required
(somewhere between 1/4" and 5/16"). On PRE-SPLIT models, alignment
must be done with the lower panel clamped to the front end - so that the
entire unit can be aligned at one time. Some early truck front ends may
need to be notched where the frame horns protrude forward.
Place two hinging brackets on each forward frame rail with the gusset on
the out board side. These brackets should be positioned 1/2" behind
your bumper - clamp them into place. The other two brackets should be
positioned on top of the first two with the gussets on the inboard
side. Place the hinges (supplied) between the two brackets , which are
now sleeved together, at the top forward edge forming a temporary shim.
Next, shim the top bracket up to contact with the front end steel bar
and clamp it in place. With the brackets in position trim off the
excess at a point 1/4" above the bumper. this should put your hinge
point 1/2" above and 1/2" behind the bumper.
In with the new
Remove the front end and brackets. Cut all 4 brackets off at the mark 1/2" above the bumper. Put the 2
lower brackets back in place - drill and bolt / weld them to the frame
rail, while being sure to keep them parallel. Assemble your hinges, by
hammering the pin into the slot as shown. Make sure both hinges are
assembled the same, this will allow the front end (once fully opened) to
be easily removed by sliding it to one side. EASY ON - EASY OFF Position the hinges with the hinge center 3/8 "above the brackets and
weld them in place. Next weld the two upper brackets to the rear side
of the hinges. At this point your hinging mechanism should move up and
Put your front end back in
and drill a 1/2" hole through the front ends steal bar and the upper
hinge bracket. Make sure to double check the security of the steel bar laminated
in the front end itself. More fiberglass may need to be added to secure it
properly. Now that your new U.S. BODY SOURCE front end is aligned and securely
attached to the hinge assembly, it is time to secure the lower fender panels.
(On Pre-split models simply drill & bolt the lower fender section to the cab.
Skip forward to Grill & light installation) On other front ends which are
NOT pre-split - draw a line where you would like to split the front end from the
lower fender section. This panel can be cut off with a die grinder or fine tooth
saber saw. Once the cut has been made you will need to dress all 4 sides
of your cut area - with fiberglass flat stock, so the fenders close
securely. Fabricate brackets and install the lower fender section to your cab.
Grill & Light
Drill open all of the light bowls,
grill attach points and side marker holes on the indicated spots. Needed
will be a drill, saber saw, hand file & possibly a square rat tail file
(for the headlight adjuster). Check your original steel to
be sure that the holes are not opened too large. If the holes are
opened too large - they will have to be glassed closed and reopened. Prefit all trim to be sure that no further drilling is required after
painting. Some front end trim pieces may need modification - because
the front end is now one solid piece and there is no space between the
hood and the sore support, as on the original vehicle.
Wiring & Radiator
To secure the radiator cut the center
section of the original core support - leaving at least 3" on each side
of the radiator opening - leaving you with a radiator cradle as shown
below. On some models the radiator may need to be moved back a few
inches and the fan shroud may need trimming to clear the tilt
mechanism. With the radiator installed in the newly modified sore
support - bolt it directly to the frame. The original perches can be
moved back to clear the front end. To support the top of the radiator
securely, we recommend steel tubing from the top of the new core support
attached to the top of the firewall. Secure all loose wiring and install
a quick disconnect plug on all of the wiring attached to the front end -
for easy removal. During this time don't forget the unit is fiberglass
and a ground wire will be necessary for proper operation of all
Your almost done!
To hold the new tilt front end open you
may want to choose from the following suggestions.....Hydraulic strut
rods (found at the local auto parts store)....A pump powered hydraulic
cylinder.......or a simple chain. We have even seen customers use a
single air shock, which worked very well. To latch the front end down -
you can use CJ hood tie downs, electric trunk latches, hood pins, dzus
fasteners or what ever you might decide upon. Rubber snubbers are also
a good idea at the back of the hood to give the unit something to rest
on at the cowling area. Once everything is complete and operating
properly block sand the unit - prime & paint.
We have tried to cover most areas involved in a simple
installation. The installation you do, may be easier or more difficult,
depending on your make / model and ability.